On re-reading William H. E Ukers’ All About Coffee

 
When I took to my bed twenty years ago and with it, the book, it was more a state of mind than the ruptured appendix that put me there. In either case, the book was merely sampled, at best. I had other things on my mind – more youthful things – and I cannot even imagine what drew me to it, except that there it was with a few others at my bedside. Now, these many years – and cups – later, I come to it, a credentialled drinker.

The title of this post is pulled from Ukers’ “Ecomiums and Descriptive Phrases” in All About Coffee’s preamble. As of this writing, the book is 102 years old, encrusted in Edwardian erudition and charm, free from any pesky post-colonial revisionism. That being what it is, I set aside my churlish druthers and seek to assess it on its lionised merits.

In All About Coffee, one encounters not merely a treatise on the humble bean but a cavalcade of human history, culture, and commerce interwoven with the delicate aroma of freshly brewed coffee. Ukers, in his magnum opus, delves deep into the annals of time to unearth the origins, evolution, and omnipresence of this beloved beverage. On that note alone, it deserves pride of place on the bookself of any aficionado.

Ukers’ narrative is as rich and complex as the brew it celebrates, tracing coffee’s journey from its mythical discovery in the Ethiopian highlands to its modern-day ubiquity in cafés across the globe. With meticulous attention to detail, he explores the cultural significance of coffee in various societies, from the bustling coffeehouses of 17th-century London to the intimate kahvehans of Ottoman Istanbul.

COFFEE FUN FACT: In 17th-century England, coffeehouses emerged as public social spaces where individuals from various walks of life gathered to engage in conversation and commerce. These establishments became hubs for political discussion and intellectual exchange, contributing to the dissemination of Enlightenment ideas. Notably, the first English coffeehouse opened in Oxford in 1650, and by 1739, London housed 551 coffeehouses, each attracting a distinct clientele.

Through Ukers’ meticulous research and his unwavering dedication to his subject, All About Coffee stands as a monumental achievement in the realm of culinary literature. However, as with any work of such magnitude, it is not without its flaws and complexities.

At its core, Ukers’ work is a celebration of the human obsession with coffee—a beverage that has transcended its humble origins to become a global phenomenon. Yet, in his quest to document every facet of coffee’s history and culture, Ukers occasionally loses sight of the broader implications of his subject matter.

Throughout All About Coffee, Ukers adopts a decidedly Eurocentric perspective, focusing primarily on the Western world’s relationship with coffee while neglecting the rich coffee cultures of Africa, Asia, and Latin America – a discussion of which I will leave for another day. While it is understandable that Ukers, writing in the early 20th century, would be limited by the sources available to him, his omission of these vital perspectives is nevertheless glaring.

Furthermore, Ukers’ prose, while undoubtedly erudite and informative, can at times be dense and impenetrable, alienating readers who do not possess a deep knowledge of coffee or its history. Such was the case at the time of my first faltering attempt.

His exhaustive cataloging of coffee-related minutiae may overwhelm all but the most dedicated of enthusiasts, leaving others struggling to find a foothold in his labyrinthine narrative.

Yet, for all its shortcomings, All About Coffee remains a towering achievement in the genre. Ukers’ passion for his subject shines through on every page, illuminating the intricate web of human history, culture, and commerce that surrounds the simple act of brewing a cup of coffee.

In conclusion, the book is a work of staggering ambition and scope, a testament to Ukers’ unwavering dedication to his subject. While not without its flaws, get a copy, put the coffee on and settle in for an entertaining education.

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