From Beans to Beverages

You have selected the desired varietal and roasted it to your ideal profile. Now, how do you release all that potential into the perfect cup of coffee? There are four basic methods available to you. We call them the Four Dimensions of Coffee Brewing.

Each influences the flavour release in a different way, holding the potential to either enhance or detract from the experience. So, which one is the right one, and how do you manage the process for the ultimate cup?

Let’s start with a description of each, along with some guidelines for success:

1. Under Pressure

The most common and recognizable example of a pressurized system is the ubiquitous espresso machine. We can hear the hiss and crema-laden gurgle. And, oh, the aroma! But the venerable La Pavoni represents only one of a few pressurized systems and one of many machines to operate as patented in 1904 by Pavoni’s business partner, Luigi Bezzara (adapted from the original patent by Angelo Moriondo in 1884).

I mention these dates to illustrate how coffee as we popularly understand it from our local bistros is only a brief snapshot within a long and ancient history. More on that when we get into the other dimensions.

For now, let’s explore the subsets to coffee Under Pressure:

The Espresso Machine: As already mentioned, the espresso machine is the workhorse of the modern day coffee shop. Based on the Illy specifications of a jet of hot water at 88°-93°C (190°-200°F) passing under a pressure of nine or more atmospheres through a seven-gram (.25 oz) cake-like layer of ground and tamped coffee, this is how to produce a concentrate of not more than 30 ml (one oz) – the measure of a single, perfect espresso shot.

To our mind, two of the best truly manual machines with boilers on board are manufactured by La Pavoni and Oympia. Both would likely survive the apocalypse, and if anything did fail, their heritage speaks volumes to their customer support.

La Pavoni	Olympia Express

Though our focus here is on small volume, in-home use. If your need is of a higher volume, and you want to stick with the fully manual solution, these 2- and 3-lever La Pavonis are worth a look for all the same reasons.

La Pavoni Diamante 2L-B	La Pavoni Bar T 3L-B

The Automat: The term “automatic” covers a lot of ground (or in our case, “grind”); so much so that it verges on meaningless without some clarification.

On one end of the spectrum, a step beyond the traditional manual espresso machines mentioned above, you have a range of  semi-automated systems that electronically control temperature, pressure, etc. Further up the stack you have fully automated pressure controls, and portion-controlled self-grinding hoppers feeding measured amounts of coffee into the production process. At their best, these can provide a high level of consistency in the finished shots.

Here are a few of the top-performing semi-automatic models ideal for discerning tastes and most home demands:

Gaggia Classic Pro	Rancilio Pro X

La Marzocco Linea Micra	Breville Dual Boiler

At the fully automatic end of the spectrum, the super-automatics are the go-to units for those seeking to avoid the hassles and complexity that come with artisan processing. They still use real ground coffee, but that is about as close as you need to get being hands-on.

A number of units and manufacturers rank highest on consumers’ lists. Our research has settled on the following two for your consideration. Again, probably not for the real aficionado, but we would be remiss if we failed to give them a mention.

In every case, they perform well with established reputations for durability. The prices are wide-ranging and though they are all worthy of their reputations, incidental features and popularity mean you get what you pay for. It is up to you to decide which is the better fit for your needs and budget.

Jura Z10	Di’Longhi Dinamica

While we are at it, as much as it rubs us the wrong way, pod-based coffee machines have exploded in popularity in homes and office coffee rooms from coast to coast. These use pre-portioned varietals and blends – often as specialty drinks (cappuccino, lattes, mocaccinos, etc.) –  in sealed pods, exclusively designed for a given manufacturer’s proprietary machine. Cynical minds have observed that buying into the device commits the user to a lifetime of that producer’s coffee product. Just saying.

Regardless, here are models from the top three manufacturers by market share:

Keurig K155	Nespresso Virtuo Plus	Lavazza BLUE

The Moca Pot: The ultimate portable espresso machine. This classic boiler has zero moving parts, and fits nicely in a suitcase. That said, I have never travelled with one. Live long enough and you will make the trip!

Traditionally made of aluminium, some current-day models come in stainless steel. In either case, they are comprised of two chambers, the upper of which receives the steam-forced, crema-laden coffee from the boiler below.

These units are commonly available wherever you are, though the replacement gaskets can prove difficult to find. The top manufacturer is Bialetti, and they come if various cup capcities For your reference, here are three of the top-selling models:

Bialetti Moca Express	Grosche Milano	Coffee Gator Moca Pot

The AeroPress^®: At first glance, the AeroPress^® looks gimmicky. The question springs to mind, “what was the problem that the gadget sought to resolve?” It didn’t appear to be doing anything that more established devices were not already doing. So, we asked the company to comment.

The response came back that the inventor, Alan Adler, found it difficult to brew just one good cup of coffee at home; so, he developed the AeroPress^®. And a new category in the pressurized coffee process was born – though it is only nominally a pressurized system.

Human pressure is exerted to force partially steeped coffee through a resistant filter. Viewed that way, the AeroPress^® could have easily been included in two of the other three dimensions.

I can’t say I have ever had a problem brewing a single cup using other, existing methods, which punctures (or at least penetrates) that logic. Couple that with the design notion of applying pressure to a plunger system inverted over a receiving cup and you find yourself in a precarious position. While the vast majority of users succeed, many have collapsed in a clattering slop on the kitchen counter. Many a meme-worthy misadventure can be viewed online. So, our take is that if the AeroPress^® is not a gimmick, it is certainly quirky.

That said, diehard users love it; so, we include it here for your testing and review. We look forward to your comments below.

The AeroPress Go Coffee	The AeroPress Go Travel Kit

2. Steeping

Steeping is a process where ground coffee is allowed to soak in hot water for a period of time. Anyone who has made a cup of tea is familiar with this process.

In the case of coffee steeping, it is important to separate the coffee drink from the coffee grounds once the steeping is complete. The systems we look at here all do this in slightly different ways.

The French Press: In France, “cafetiere”. Hot water is poured into a cylindrical, beaker-like flask containing a measure of ground coffee. This is then left to sit for approx. 5 min before a metal mesh disc filter is plunged downward, isolating the grounds from the rich liquid above, et voilà!

Available in multiple cup capacities and a seeminly endless variety of holding frameworks.

Assorted French Presses (cafetieres) – Click through for full range

SoftBrew: Similar to how the AeroPress^® emerged on the landscape providing a solution to a dubious problem, the SoftBrew^TM appeared in the 1980s. Designed by British-born and Milan-headquartered, George Sowden, the system is manufactured under the Sowden brand. A basic steeping pot, the system’s defining feature is its fine-meshed metal filtering chamber that blocks virtually all solid coffee (or tea) material from getting into the brew.

In that way, it stands as valued innovation, further bolstering its credibility as an environmentally conscious product, with zero non-organic waste, producing a very clean drink.

Available in a range of colors and capacities – Click button for specs

Siphoning: My first experience with a siphon coffee maker was over 30 years ago (Yikes!). It was a Bodum design, remarkably unchanged from the one on the left below. I remember being bowled over by the raw physics on display. A few technological things have happened in the world (and my life) since then, but watching one work is still an exciting thing to behold.

What happens is the water heated in one chamber is forced through a filter valve into the other where the ground coffee resides. It does so at the perfect temperature, and basically works on the same principle in all versions.

Once the water has made the transfer to the brewing chamber, the heat is turned off. Then, as the heating chamber cools, the change in ambient pressure draws the water back to the heating chamber, filtering the coffee from the brewed beverage. Mesmerizing.

As I say, all work on the same principle, but the designs can vary. For example, the second image below is called a Belgian Royal Family Balance Siphon and has the added science you gasoline or petrol thieves will recognize. With the transfer of weight between the two chamber, the vessels see-saw using gravity to aid in the return transfer between the offset chambers.

If this is confusing, just trust me and get one. It adds a new dimension to any dinner party – and it brews multiple cups.

Bodum Stove-top	Belgian Royal Family Balance	Yama Glass Counter-top

3. Filtering

The filtering dimension is a common go-to process in coffee extraction. Some would argue it is the dominant method, one way or another. At its base, it involves separating the brewed coffee liquid from the solid coffee grounds. The need for separation is present in every dimension – a mouthful of grounds is never the high point of any preparation – but only in this one is it the central function.

The filtration method typically employs a porous material, such as paper, cloth, or metal, to allow the liquid coffee to pass through while isolating the grounds. Filtering also helps remove or regulate undesirable components, such as sediment and oils, resulting in a smoother and cleaner cup of coffee.

Common methods of filtering include pour-over brewing, drip brewing, and using coffee makers with built-in filters. I will cover each in turn here:

The Drip Method: A drip coffee maker, also known as a drip brewer or automatic coffee maker, operates using a common and straightforward brewing process. Here’s how it typically works:

• Water Reservoir: Cold water is poured into the reservoir attached to the coffee maker. It usually has markings indicating the amount of water needed for various serving sizes of coffee. A brewing cycle uses all the available water.
• Heating Element: The water is then heated by an element inside the appliance. This is either a metal plate or coil. The water is heated to the optimal brewing temperature – usually near-boiling temperatures, typically around 195°F to 205°F (90°C to 96°C).
• Filter Basket: There is a filter basket located above the coffee pot. This is where you place a paper or reusable mesh filter containing ground coffee. The coffee grounds are evenly spread across the filter and are measured according to the desired amount of water in the reservoir, equaling the target number of cups.
• Drip Mechanism: Once the water reaches the desired temperature, it is pumped or dripped from the reservoir onto the coffee grounds in the filter basket. The hot water extracts the flavor compounds and oils from the coffee grounds as it passes through them. Higher quality devices will be designed to distribute the water evenly across the surface of the coffee grounds, giving better exposure to the coffee itself.
• Brewing: The hot water saturates the coffee grounds, causing them to release the soluble components that give coffee its flavor, aroma, and caffeine content. The brewed coffee then drips through the filter into the coffee pot below.
• Hot Plate/Warming Element: Many drip coffee makers have a hot plate or warming element under the coffee pot to keep the brewed coffee warm after it’s done brewing. This helps maintain the temperature and freshness of the coffee until you’re ready to serve it, though care should be taken to consume the coffee within a 20-45 minute timeframe. Any longer, and it will take on a stale, potentially burnt overtone.
• Completion: Once all the water has passed through the coffee grounds and into the pot, the brewing process is complete. The coffee maker may emit a signal, such as a beep or light, to indicate that the brewing cycle has finished. The boiler element will likely also shut off at this point, its function having completed.

Overall, drip coffee makers offer a convenient and easy way to brew coffee, making them popular choices for home and office use. Because of this, they are widely available at relatively low costs. But, as with anything, you get what you pay for (fingers crossed). With added features and higher performance come additional costs.

Krups 10-cup Home Drip	Bunn High-volume Drip

Pour-overs: The pour-over method is the aficionado’s choice for filtration coffee. It allows for manual control over temperature and the spread and pacing of the pour – all factors in coaxing the ideal flavor extraction from your bean/roast/grind combination.

Different designs and devices populate the marketplace, with three designs of subtle (some would argue, significant) variation standing above all others. They are:

• Chemex: The Chemex pour-over coffee method was invented by a chemist named Dr. Peter Schlumbohm in 1941; so, it had been around for awhile. Dr. Schlumbohm sought to create a brewing device that combined aesthetics, functionality, and efficiency. His design resulted in the iconic Chemex coffee maker, which features an hourglass-shaped vessel made of glass, accompanied by a destinctive wooden collar and leather tie. It employs specially designed filters that are thicker than standard paper ones, promoting a slower extraction process and producing a clean, flavorful cup of coffee. The innovative design and attention to detail have made the Chemex a beloved brewing method among coffee enthusiasts worldwide.
• Hario V60: The V60 pour-over coffee method was invented in Japan in 2004 by Hiromu Shibata, founder of the glassware company, Hario. It is characterized by its cone shape with spiral ridges on the inside and a large opening at the bottom. These features promote optimal extraction by facilitating a consistent flow of water through the coffee grounds. The V60 has become popular among coffee enthusiasts for its simplicity, control over brewing variables, and ability to produce a clean and nuanced cup of coffee.
• Vietnamese Drip “cà phê phin”: The Vietnamese drip coffee method is, in many ways, the prototype to the other two – if only given its history and traditional popularity in Vietnam. It involves a small metal filter called a “phin” and produces a rich and intense coffee with a unique flavor profile.

While all three methods—Vietnamese pour-over, Chemex, and Hario V60—fall under the pour-over category, they differ in various aspects, including equipment, brewing technique, and flavor profile. Here is how it plays out:

Equipment

• Vietnamese: Uses a traditional Vietnamese coffee filter called a “phin.” It consists of a perforated metal chamber with a lid and a removable base.
• Chemex: Utilizes a specially designed glass carafe with a conical shape, accompanied by proprietary Chemex paper filters.
• V60: Features a cone-shaped dripper with spiral ridges on the inside, typically made of ceramic, glass, or plastic, and uses V60-specific paper filters.

Filter Type

• Vietnamese: The “phin” allows more oils and sediments to pass through, resulting in a rich and bold cup of coffee.
• Chemex: Employs thick, proprietary paper filters, which produce a clean cup of coffee by trapping oils and sediment.
• V60: Uses thinner paper filters, designed with ridges to facilitate a consistent flow of water and even extraction.

Grind Size and Brew Time

• Vietnamese: Typically uses a coarse grind size and a slower brewing process, resulting in a robust and strong brew.
• Chemex: Requires a medium-coarse grind size and a longer brew time, yielding a clean, crisp, and nuanced cup with clarity of flavors.
• V60: Often involves a medium-fine grind size and a relatively short brew time, producing a bright and aromatic cup with more complexity.

Brewing Technique

• Vietnamese: Involves a slow and steady pour of hot water over the coffee grounds in the phin filter, allowing for a thorough extraction.
• Chemex: Follows a precise pouring technique, typically involving a bloom phase followed by multiple pours in a circular motion to ensure even saturation.
• V60: Requires careful control of pour rate and water temperature, with a focus on maintaining a consistent flow to achieve optimal extraction.

Flavor Profile

• Vietnamese: Results in a strong, bold, and often sweet brew (when served with the traditional condensed milk) with a pronounced body due to the use of a metal filter.
• Chemex: Offers a clean, crisp, and balanced cup with clarity of flavors and a lighter body.
• V60: Produces a bright, aromatic, and complex cup with a lighter body and pronounced acidity.

Overall, while all three methods share the pour-over technique, they each offer unique brewing experiences and flavor profiles, catering to different preferences and tastes.

The control given to the preparer can yield exceptional results, but it is worth mentioning a knee-jerk response to any technology that requires the on-going use of proprietary expendibles – in this case, filters.

Still, if the results are there…

The Vietnamese “Phin”	10-cup Chemex	V60-style Extractor

Percolators: Having been alive long enough to remember percolators being the mainstay coffee makers in North American homes, I will start by saying they are not my favorite. That said, they persist and are the go-to method for many. Technologies have advanced and the quality of the output as well.

So, setting aside my ingrained prejudice, here is how they work:

A (traditionally) metal filtering caddy is situated atop a hollow conducting tube standing in a tall, cylindrical water boiler. Ground coffee is measured into the caddy and the water is heated below.

The hot water moves up the conducting tube, spilling out over the ground coffee before draining through perforations in the caddy back down into the boiling chamber.

Over the course of time, an increasingly rich and heated coffee extraction collects in the pot. Once the desired richness is reached, the beverage is ready for pouring.If you get it right, a delicious cup of coffee results but in my experience the risk of over-boiling and the repeated flow-through makes timing something of a lottery. The process is much improved since my early exposure. Innovations include:

• Controlled Temperature: Modern percolators often feature temperature control mechanisms to ensure the water remains at the optimal brewing temperature throughout the brewing process. This helps prevent over-extraction or bitterness.
• Improved Filtration: Advances in filter materials have led to better filtration, resulting in cleaner and more refined coffee with fewer sediments and oils. Paper filters, for example, are designed to trap fine particles and oils, producing a smoother cup.
• Precision Brewing: Some modern percolators offer programmable features and settings, allowing users to adjust parameters such as brew time, water flow rate, and temperature. This level of control enables users to fine-tune their brewing process for optimal results.
• Design and Aesthetics: Percolator design has evolved to prioritize aesthetics, user-friendliness, and ease of cleaning. Sleek and modern designs are now common, making percolators not only functional but also visually appealing.
• Material Quality: The materials used in modern percolators, such as stainless steel and heat-resistant plastics, are often more durable and resistant to corrosion than older models, ensuring longevity and ease of maintenance.

And so, I am duly chastened. Advancements in technology have refined the coffee percolation process, offering users greater control, convenience, and consistency in brewing our favorite cup of coffee.

Here are some of the top contemporary contenders for use in the home market:

Farberware FCP412	Elite Gourment EC140	Moss & Stone Electric

4. (not) Boiled

Here is where we visit fundamentals and traditions of coffee preparation. It goes without saying that coffee’s origins predate electricity and natural gas, pressurized systems, and programmable temperature regulation. In many ways, the oldest, most rudimentary preparations can yield the purest results.

In this, the final section, we strip away all the technological refinements and look at coffee as simply a “boiled” drink. Everything from the exotic dignity of “Turkish” coffee to the simple humility of makeshift coffee brewed over a camp fire, we explore the essence of our favorite beverage by focusing on the ibrik (often interchangably referred to as a cezve), the Middle Eastern coffee pot from the region where it all began.

The simple ibrik is ingenious in its design. Traditionally made from copper or brass, it typically has a long handle for easy pouring and a wide, flared body that narrows towards the top. This helps to create the necessary foam during the brewing process.

With a standard serving size of 3-4oz, the most common pot will yield up to four servings, though larger sizes are available. 

Click through to view full ibrik and cezve range

In Summary

The options, if not endless, are certainly many. Cost, convenience and the best method for your favorite bean/roast/brew combination will all play a role in determining your go-to brewing dimension. Or maybe, like me, you have multiples on hand to fit the need on any given day.

If you have found this information let us know what stood out. Maybe it triggered some sense memories of cups gone by. Whatever it is, take a moment to comment below. As always, be sure to share, follow and subscribe.